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Q. Two years ago our front lawn was infested with grubs, and last year we had a drought. The lawn is hay-like and now is being overtaken by violets and miscellaneous weeds. The violets are nice, but I'd rather not have them take over the front lawn. What can I do to improve the lawn and keep the weeds under control, without starting over?
- D. C., Shrewsbury, MA
A. "Most lawn failures can be traced to poor soil preparation at the very beginning, along with poor maintenance practices, and, in some cases, poorly selected lawn grass varieties. When a lawn is in truly bad shape, it can be preferable in the long run to start over from scratch. If you want to try to renovate the lawn, begin by having the soil tested to determine the pH and nutrient levels. Dig out as many weeds as you can, then spread a thin (1/4-inch) layer of compost over the entire lawn. Overseed with an appropriate lawn grass, keep the are watered, and hope for the best. Healthy grass will out compete most weeds, so if you can get the sod in good shape, you'll go a long way toward controlling unwanted invaders."
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Q. "How should we care for our new hydro seeded lawn? We want to make sure that we can control the moss before it starts. My husband was thinking of liming this fall. What do you suggest?"
- C. S., Tacoma, WA
A. "Moss is quite common in regions with damp summers like the Pacific Northwest and is generally symptomatic of several underlying conditions, including poor fertility, compacted soils, too much shade, poor drainage, and low pH. Correcting these problems will usually stop moss from growing. Since you've just seeded your lawn, you shouldn't have to worry too much about moss developing in the first year or two. You should have your soil tested before adding lime; soil test result will list the soil pH, and if it's too low, recommend the amount of lime needed.
Keep your lawn healthy maintaining proper nutrient levels, watering when rainfall is sparse, and mowing regularly to keep it at the right height. Thick, healthy turf grass will crowd out any moss that tries to grow -- except for areas in deep shade where grass will struggle. There, consider planting other shade-tolerant ground covers."
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Q. Why are mushrooms growing in my lawn? How can they be eliminated and prevented? We had a new lawn installed about five years ago. A large elm had been in the area but was taken down just before the lawn was installed.
- R. K., Yakima, WA
A. "Some mushrooms grow in decaying wood or tree roots under the soil surface, and others feed off grass roots, killing the turf. In either case, the only chemical-free way to control the mushrooms is to remove the mycelia (the "stem" of the mushroom body) from the soil. If rotting wood is the source of mushroom growth, remove it and the 2 inches of soil that surrounded the wood.
If you have "fairy ring" fungi that grow in a circle, the fungus is feeding on your turf, and you'll have to remove the grass and 2 inches of surrounding soil as well. Excess moisture tends to encourage fairy rings, so water your lawn only as needed. There is no easy or inexpensive control of fairy ring fungi. The easiest strategy is to mask the effects by fertilizing the whole yard so that the impact of the nitrogen released by the fungi is not so visible. You could remove the sod within two feet of either side of the ring and replant with clean sod. But this seems a drastic and temporary solution to a minor issue. Another option is to sit back in wonder and amazement and enjoy the natural cycles of nature occurring in your yard as this beneficial fungi makes fertilizer from leaf litter right in front of your eyes!"
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Q. "I do not want to apply chemicals to my lawn at all. I have been sprinkling compost, leaving grass clippings on the lawn after mowing, and pulling weeds by hand. Do you have any kind of specific advice on maintaining an organic lawn? I don't expect it to be perfect."
- C. T., Ipswich, MA
A. "Sounds to me as though you're doing everything right! Here are a few rules to help you maintain your lawn:
1. Mow high. A lawn mowed high discourages weed and insect invasion. Set cutting height at 2.5 or three inches. Never scalp your lawn. Long grass blades stay much stronger, prevent weeds from sprouting, shade the roots and prevent drying of soil, and encourage longer, healthier roots. Mow regularly, never removing more than one-third of the leaf length at a time. Keep cutting blades sharp. This avoids tearing grass and making it susceptible to disease. Don't mow wet grass, and mow in the evening or on cloudy days.
2. Mulch clippings. You're already leaving your lawn clippings in place, but does your mower have a mulching blade? Mulching blades cut clippings into tiny pieces, so they don't clump on top of the grass and decompose quickly. This reduces the need for organic fertilizer by 30 percent. If you are detoxifying a previously chemically-treated lawn, don't mulch for a year or two or thatch may build up.
3. Water deeply. Lawns need about one inch of water once a week, applied slowly during dry spells, preferably before 8 AM. Put a can under the sprinkler and time how long it takes for an inch to accumulate. That's how long to allow before moving the sprinkler each time. Frequent, light sprinklings waste water and encourage shallow roots.
4. Control weeds and insects ecologically. A healthy, well-cared for lawn out competes most weeds. Check often for stressed areas like bare spots (they invite weed invasion) and treat promptly by eliminating the cause (such as heavy traffic). Overseed when necessary. Remove occasional weeds by hand. For persistent weed problems, get your soil professionally analyzed: ideal soil pH is 6.0 to 7.0. Add lime or sulfur to modify pH as needed. This increases availability of plant nutrients and promotes beneficial microorganisms."
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Q. I have lived at my current home for over 5 years and this is the first year that I've noticed that my lawn is thinning. I fertilize and mow on a regular basis so I don't believe that it's thinning from neglect. I would like to spread grass seed on the existing lawn but I have heard that this isn't very effective. How can I get a thicker lawn without tearing up the sod and starting from scratch?
- R. B., Salem, OR
A. "First, have your soil tested. Sometimes regular fertilization without testing can cause nutrient and pH imbalances, and can lead to thatch as well. The test results will guide you in taking the right approach.
Thatch is an accumulation of a thick layer of dead stems and roots. It can build up over a period of a few years and choke out a lawn. If soil is healthy and biologically active, dead grass parts will naturally decompose, and thatch won't develop. I don't recommend dethatching by hand, because it's very hard work. You can rent a power dethatcher at most equipment supply outlets.
The quickest and easiest way to thicken your lawn is to overseed with a good quality grass seed mixture. The seeds will sprout in 10-14 days so you'll see almost instant results. (If your lawn has excessive thatch, you should remove it before overseeding.) Continue to water and mow on a regular basis, and apply fertilizer as recommended by your soil test results, and your lawn should grow thick and lush this season."
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Q. "We planted sod about a year ago. Just recently we have noticed small patches of some type of pudding-like substance on our grass each morning. It appears in clumps (four or five at a time). Nothing is there the night before. It sits on top of the blades (sticks to them when you try to remove it, almost like someone dropped it there from above. The inside is pink and grey; if we leave it for the day and go to pick it up later, it has hardened (still creamy white on the outside and charcoal grey inside), but crumbles almost like powder. Do you have ANY idea what this could be?"
- J. R., Camarillo, CA
A. "Welcome to the wonderful world of slime molds! These goopy fungi (Myxomycetes) live on dead organic matter and thrive in moist conditions. You can rake it out and dump it in the trash; especially in the early stages before it spreads its spores. Increasing the air circulation and allowing the soil to dry out will help eliminate the stuff. To help stop the growth of slime mold, water early in the morning to allow the grass to dry before nightfall, and try raking any thatch on the soil surface to help expose it to air and sunlight. Slime molds are perfectly harmless -- just not too pleasant to look at!"
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