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Q. My cocoa mulch is white and moldy. What should I do?
- M. N., Worthington, MA
A. Generally speaking, natural organic mulches will break down gradually and help to feed the soil over time, and molds are a part of that natural decay process. If the mold is excessive however, there are several things you can try. One is to fluff it with a rake to introduce air and sunlight, another is to avoid daily light waterings and instead be sure to water deeply but less often. If the mulch is very old you may want to simply top it off with a light layer of fresh mulch which should be less hospitable to mold growth than older mulch.
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Q. I built a compost bin early last spring. When I recently added the compost to my garden, I noticed that it contained a lot of brown beetles and slugs. I saw no ordinary earth worms, though. Are these critters supposed to be in the compost and do they help the process of composting at all? The compost has a slight foul odor to it as well.
- M. F., Emporia, KS
A. "A healthy compost pile should be teeming with creatures of all kinds, ranging in size from microscopic to inches long. You've probably uncovered some potworms, and some scarab beetles. These are normal discoveries in a compost bin. Earthworms are sensitive to heat and generally stay out of compost bins, preferring to live in the cool, moist soil. Don't worry about most of the creatures you see, as they won't hurt your garden or growing plants. Their preference is to feed on and break down organic debris. Slugs are another matter, though. They will feast on your plants, so keep an eye out for them and remove them.
Foul-smelling compost is a sign of too much moisture. Try turning the compost to incorporate some air, and helping excess moisture evaporate. The pile will heat up when it has the right moisture content, and you can keep things cooking by moving the cooler material on the sides into the center of the pile. The insects and worms will stay in the cooler parts of the pile to continue feeding on decaying organic matter. Your compost will be ready to use when it's brown, crumbly, and has unrecognizable bits of organic matter. It should smell like clean soil. If you can still identify roots or leaves, the compost needs more time."
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Q. I have seen ads for products containing beneficial soil bacteria or mycorrhizal fungus, usually coupled with claims that these will help soil, increase plant nutrient uptake, and improve crop yield. Do these products have any value and do they actually improve the soil?
- J. B., Northboro, MA
A. "There is growing evidence that it is important to have a healthy microorganism system in the soil for optimum plant growth. Whether adding these microorganisms will help is still in the research stages. If your soil is in good shape already, with lots of organic matter and healthy, abundant soil life, then it's likely that these microbes are already there. If it is in poor shape -- compacted, over tilled, etc. -- then the addition of these microorganisms might be of use, but only if you improve soil at the same time to provide them with a hospitable environment.
You can certainly experiment with the products, but I would focus my efforts on adding organic matter to the soil, such as compost, shredded leaves, grass clippings, etc. and on making sure you don't over till, till when the soil is wet, or compact the soil.
The one exception would be inoculants for certain legumes. Leguminous plants form a symbiotic relationship with certain microbes to ""ix" nitrogen. If those microbes are not present, they cannot do this. Since the microbes are very specific, adding them to the soil at planting time ensures they are present. However, many gardeners never add inoculants, and still get fine yields."
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Q. Why is my new pond all of a sudden covered in algae and looking thick and murky? How can I get rid of it?
- C. W., Redford, MI
A. "Algae is actually a sign of a healthy pond, and it's very normal for new ponds to host an algal bloom. But it can get invasive and most people consider it unsightly. ""Good bacteria"" may sound like a misnomer, but adding specific bacteria to the pond's water will help control algae. Pond owners can purchase beneficial bacteria in either a dry or liquid form from pond suppliers, and pour it into the pond. The bacteria requires the same nutrients as the algae, so it basically out competes the algae by consuming its food supply and ultimately starving it. Chlorinated water doesn't contain this bacteria and although it will occur naturally over time, the process is often too slow in an artificial environment. Add beneficial bacteria to your pond about once a month in summer; twice a month when temperatures are cooler.
A biological filter, sometimes called a biological clarifier, provides a location where bacteria can easily colonize. The filter keeps algae away and has moving water, which provides an oxygen source for the bacteria. Used together, the filter and the beneficial bacteria will help keep your pond's water clean and clear.
The bacteria go dormant from late fall to early spring when temperatures cool. Be patient because it won't work overnight. If the algae's appearance bothers you, scuff up a rod, such as a broom handle, with sandpaper and then using it to "twirl" up the algae like spaghetti. Add the nitrogen-rich algae to your compost heap and it will really heat up!"
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